40W Soldering Iron with Clamp
— Material: Stainless steel plastic
— 40 Watt power soldering iron
— Voltage:AC 250V / 6A
— 2-flat pin plug
— Temperature range: 200~ 450 degree Celsius
— Comes with clamp
— Power cable length: 150cm
As for the recommendations “to take or not to take”, I can already say: if you have taken it, don’t be upset. And such a soldering iron can work. Especially if the tip is replaced from steel to copper. 🙂
This product was taken for small household chores like picking phones, etc.
It came pretty quickly. However, when I was handed an almost flat package in the mail, I tried for a long time to understand what I was getting. Ordered a bunch of stuff. There are no tracks. So every time going to the post office is a surprise. 🙁
Post of Russia (well, or China, horseradish is not sweeter) rolled out a small package just into a pancake-like state. So, with a slight thickening. How people dare to order ceramic knives – I wonder …
Okay, boom, consider that the mail helped to unpack the goods. Through the well-worn bottom of the blister, the soldering iron easily fell into the substituted hand.
Let’s see. There are two separate cables: one is a network cable, rather soft, about 150 cm long; – wires about a meter with a crocodile on the tail. This is for grounding. Just in case. Although in fact, "gentle" circuits are soldered with low-voltage soldering irons with grounding.
The heating element is hidden in a quite ordinary tube with a welded spot by welding with a mounting flange (this will be seen in another photo. A little burnt in the middle – I already turned it on. 🙂
The flange is screwed with three self-tapping screws through a plastic spacer to the handle. With a well-heated soldering iron, this place will definitely become hot and, perhaps, the self-tapping screws will begin to melt the handle. There was such a sad experience on a domestic soldering iron. There, however, the period of failure was calculated in a couple of years. Yes, and at our voltage of 237V, it simply overheated. The sting was quickly eaten and other "charms". BUT
there is a regulator here and you can hope that it will last long enough without overheating. Yes, and the use is supposed to be periodic, by no means everyday. Well, if someone starts to strain – you need to take action immediately.
Further, the plastic spacer between the heater and the handle is attached to the handle itself. The handle, in addition to the main function, has a clearly https://jiji.com.et/trucks-commercial-agricultiral/nissan-pick_up decorative design. Transparent, with details inside.
Moreover, it has a pre-formed semi-cylindrical lens on top and bottom of the temperature controller board. Obviously not just like that. Those. From the end, the details are visible smaller than from above. The Chinese are showing off. 🙂
In the tide, closer to the front end of the handle, there is a well for the temperature regulator. To less hurt him at work. A label with temperature values is glued to the surface of the adjusting wheel. The pointer arrow is convex, molded on the front surface of the well (now it points at 250 degrees) between the mounting screw and the regulator knob.
In the back of the handle, you can see the power wires sealed from pulling out and a short protective insert at the output. In theory, it should protect the wire from excessive bending at the exit point. In fact, it’s a bummer.
On the reverse side of the printed circuit board – tracks, soldering, ground wire. The soldering is not bad, but when cutting off the legs, something tried to come off.
On the side you can see that the board is too narrow, it fell off a special groove in the handle and hangs
sloppy. The heater is lower, the cord is higher than the groove.
What interfered with the disassembly-assembly, by the way.
Here’s a closer https://jiji.sn/cars/toyota-corolla-2013 look: a triac, a variable resistor, a resistor instead of a transistor, an LED… Marking ± is visible at the input of the thermal control circuit. What’s there? Diode or thermocouple?
Here is a tab of the ground wire screwed under the round flange of the heater. By the way, because of him, the general view of the soldering iron warps. The heater is at an angle to the handle. If this jars someone’s sense of beauty – you need to put washers under the other two screws to compensate for the difference in thickness at the three attachment points.
By the way, in this picture you can see the skew of the heater relative to the handle.
Actually, this is how the soldering iron heats up – with LED backlight. When it heats up, the LED will turn off. Lies for a minute, cools down. The LED flashes – in 7-8 seconds it will reach the desired temperature – it will turn off.
What can I say.
This SKU is a more miserable version of the previously reviewed mysku.club/blog/tinydeal/3358.html By the way, it’s still better to buy it. Everything is done a little better there. And the power reserve does not pull the pocket.
Distortions, shortcomings, savings on matches – a typical Chinese. On a tip from the first commentator, SUDDENLY it turned out that the sting was … steel! It’s completely out of the question, to be honest.
Cheaper, simpler, but it works. During operation, by the way, not only the sting is heated, but also the handle. 🙂 Where the power supply resistor of the circuit is located, the largest one is at the output of the power wire.
There was no adapter from the American flat to the Russian round plug in the kit – this was saved by the seller.
You should not rely on the accuracy of degrees from the regulator knob. This is not a soldering station though. There, the sensor is inserted into the recess of the sting itself, as far as I remember. Here, the sting is pressed against the heater with as many as two screws, because their length is the same. Although, as planned, one should be shorter – attach the casing to the heater, the second is more authentic – press the sting against the opposite wall of the heater.
For housework – I would like to expand the temperature range down a bit – there are models from 150 degrees. Sometimes it is more pleasant to melt hot glue or plastic with them than with a piece of iron at 200 degrees.
According to the results of such sniffing, the price of 330 rubles for our stores would be the norm, but for China – IMHO, a little overpriced. 30 percent.
In general, who is too lazy to solder or buy
all sorts of dimmers to adjust the power from the magazines "Radio" and others like them – wellcome! 🙂 One hell, there will be power, and here is the temperature from the sensor on the heater. There it will be evenly unknown what temperature, here – in small jumps, it is also unknown what it is. My non-contact thermometer will arrive – it will be possible to measure the temperature hysteresis of this product. Only this nafig no one needs …